Tripitaka Koreana woodblocks inside Janggyeong Panjeon at Haein Temple KOREA NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
HAPCHEON, South Gyeongsang ? Centuries of invasions destroyed or damaged countless cultural treasures on the Korean Peninsula.
But nearly eight centuries later, more than 80,000 woodblocks known as the Tripitaka Koreana, carved with the Buddhist canon during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), still survive at Haein Temple on Mount Gaya.
The story of how they survived is fascinating enough to plan a trip to the mountain,?designated Korea’s ninth national park in 1972. Straddling Seongju County in North Gyeongsang and Hapcheon County in South Gyeongsang, Gayasan National Park spans 76.792 square kilometers (18,975 acres).
While the woodblocks may draw you to the national park, it’s the mountain’s own sounds that carry the journey forward ? from rushing valley water and rustling forest trails to the calls of birds and insects that fade into the quiet of the night inside the national park.
From Seoul, Gayasan National Park can be reached by taking the KTX to Gimcheon (Gumi) Station, a journey of about 1 hour and 30 minutes, followed by a roughly 45-minute taxi ride.
Start with 800 years of history
Surrounded by Mount Gaya’s forested slopes, Haein Temple is a destination famous in its own right.
Visitors walk along a path near Ilju Gate at Haein Temple in Gayasan National Park. WOO JI-WON
Visitors arrive at Haein Temple in Gayasan National Park. WOO JI-WON
Founded in 802, Haein is considered one of Korea’s three major Buddhist temples, drawing visitors from near and far. On a recent visit, taxis pulled up and tour buses unloaded groups of international visitors outside the temple, among them Samuel Govea.
“Haeinsa Temple was part of our tour, but I already knew about Haeinsa Temple and wanted to visit because my friend and I like spiritual temples,” said Govea, a visitor from Mexico.
온라인릴게임
“It’s so impressive and very beautiful.”
But to think of Haein as simply another beautiful historic temple would be an understatement, and Govea had yet to see what awaited at the top.
International visitors stand near Daejeokgwangjeon, Haein Temple’s main worship hall. WOO JI-WON
From Ilju Gate, the temple’s first, the route climbs 108 steps through a succession of gates, courtyards and halls, passing Bonghwang Gate, a three-story stone pagoda and stone lantern and Daejeokgwangjeon, the temple’s main hall. Everything along the climb deserves attention, but it is what awaits farther uphill that keeps you climbing.
Another steep flight of stairs finally leads to Janggyeong Panjeon. Inside its halls are 81,258 wooden printing blocks, engraved between 1237 and 1248 and bearing one of the world’s most complete collections of Buddhist texts.
Visitors stand in the courtyard of Janggyeong Panjeon at Haein Temple. WOO JI-WON
The buildings of Janggyeong Panjeon, which date from the 15th century, were constructed to house the woodblocks. As the oldest depository of the Tripitaka, they demonstrate sophisticated conservation techniques that have helped preserve the collection for centuries.
Recognized for their architectural and conservational significance, the buildings were inscribed on the Unesco World Heritage List in 1995, while the Tripitaka Koreana woodblocks themselves were added to Unesco’s Memory of the World Register in 2007.
Janggyeong Panjeon consists of four wooden buildings arranged around a rectangular courtyard. Since four years ago, Haein has allowed visitors to enter the courtyard and get a closer look at the woodblocks through the wooden lattice windows. Previously, visitors could only view the complex from outside its perimeter.
모바일 바다이야기게임솔루션
Tripitaka Koreana woodblocks are seen through a wooden lattice window at Janggyeong Panjeon. WOO JI-WON
Tripitaka Koreana woodblocks KOREA NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
A peek through the lattice windows reveals rows of woodblocks filling the massive repositories, bringing the scale of the collection ? and the history behind it ? into view.
There is something unexpectedly moving about seeing them this close. Nearly eight centuries after they were carved, the woodblocks are not artifacts encountered behind a museum display case but remain in the very repositories built to protect them.
The astonishing sight makes it difficult to simply take a look and move on, leaving you with questions about the centuries of history they have survived.
For answers, head to the Theme Park of the Tripitaka Koreana, which opened near Haeinsa in 2011. Even questions as basic as what kind of wood was used are answered here.
Birch was once widely believed to have been the main material used for the blocks, but scientific analysis of samples has found Sargent cherry to be the most common.
Buddhist texts printed from the Tripitaka Koreana woodblocks line a wall at the Theme Park of the Tripitaka Koreana. WOO JI-WON
The calligraphy on the woodblocks is remarkably uniform. The carvers spent a year practicing the script before beginning their work, with mistakes said to have been exceedingly rare.
And then there was the challenge of moving it all.
The Tripitaka Koreana was carved while Goryeo’s royal court was on Ganghwa Island during the Mongol invasions. The woodblocks were eventually transferred to Haein toward the end of the 14th century. One theory holds that much of the journey was made by water.
But perhaps the biggest question is how the woodblocks have survived since the 13th century, something the theme park also helps explain.
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There is no modern air conditioning humming away inside Janggyeong Panjeon. Instead, differently sized lattice windows encourage air to circulate naturally through the buildings, while earthen floors layered with charcoal, salt, lime and sand help regulate moisture. Even the racks are designed to leave space for air to circulate around the woodblocks.
Walk to the sounds of Mount Gaya
If the Tripitaka Koreana drew you to Mount Gaya, it is only the beginning of what makes the mountain worth exploring.
Beyond Haein, Gayasan National Park unfolds into forested trails, rocky peaks and clear valleys, with centuries of history and Buddhist culture woven into the landscape.
But pay attention to the sounds along the way. They offer one of the best ways to experience Mount Gaya.
The Gayasan Sorigil trail WOO JI-WON
Nowhere is that more apparent than on Gayasan Sorigil, connecting the Theme Park of the Tripitaka Koreana area with the entrance to Haeinsa.
The Korean word "sori" usually means “sound,” but the name of this particular trail carries a different Buddhist meaning: “a path to paradise.” After traversing the path, both interpretations feel fitting.
The first sound arrives almost immediately. Water.
Much of the trail follows Hongnyudong Valley, with clear water running alongside the path and small cascades breaking the steady rush of the stream. Sometimes the water murmurs below. At other points, it becomes loud enough to drown out almost everything else.
The trail itself is easygoing compared with a climb to Gayasan’s peaks. Running through a wooded valley rather than along high mountain ridges, it was designed as a low-elevation route where visitors of different ages can experience the national park’s nature and history.
Chinese characters carved into rocks along the route at Gayasan Sorigil WOO JI-WON
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Another fun detail to look out for is the Chinese characters carved into rocks along the route. Some are names left behind by people who visited the valley centuries ago, when carving one’s name into scenic rocks was a trend. Still clearly visible today, the carvings are a strangely moving reminder that people have been drawn to this landscape for generations.
Farther along, the rush of the valley gives way to quieter stretches of forest. Leaves rustle in the breeze and birds chirp among the trees, sounds that make it easy to keep walking.
Explore, learn and stay
Can you tell an aemaemi cicada from a sseureummaemi just by its call? Or a narrow-mouthed frog from a mountain frog? And did you know that some cicadas can sound surprisingly like birds chirping?
The Gayasan National Park Nature Center WOO JI-WON
At the Gayasan National Park Nature Center, it was time to find out during “Soundscape,” a pilot program that turns listening to nature into an experience of its own. Incorporating elements of Netflix’s animated hit “KPop Demon Hunters” (2025), the program centers on the sounds of nature surrounding the center.
Soundscape is one of the environmental education programs offered at the center, one of 10 ecological exploration centers operated by the Korea National Park Service. Opened in 2018, the center also offers accommodation, but guests must take part in one of its programs, either online or in person, to stay overnight in keeping with the center’s primary purpose of helping visitors learn about nature and health and wellness.
Participants first learn the calls of creatures found around the mountain, one by one. Frogs croak, cicadas call in surprisingly different pitches and rhythms and some sounds are nothing like what one might expect.
A person walks along a trail at the Gayasan National Park Nature Center. WOO JI-WON
Then it is time to put their ears to the test.
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Participants head outside, where recordings are hidden throughout the center, and try to guess which creature is making each sound.
But not every sound along the way comes from a recording. Along the center’s well-maintained trails, where flowers and plants are labeled, birds call from somewhere beyond the trees. Water flows nearby. When the wind picks up, rustling leaves add an accompaniment.
Participants then headed back inside to meditate to the sounds of nature.
There are plenty of other ways to enjoy the grounds, too, including an observation deck. But a personal favorite was a huge hammock-like net set among the trees, reached by a web of rope tunnel bridges.
Huge hammock-like nets set among the trees at the Gayasan National Park Nature Center. WOO JI-WON
People walk inside a rope tunnel bridge WOO JI-WON
With few roads or other major sources of artificial noise nearby, the center is home to roughly 700 species of birds, amphibians, reptiles and insects. Stretch out on the net, look up at the trees and let the forest provide the soundtrack. The only challenge may be convincing yourself to get back up.
Accommodation options range from simple rooms for two to larger, standalone lodgings, including duplex, traditional-style tile- and thatched-roof houses, with 33 units in total.
Haneulchae at the Gayasan National Park Nature Center WOO JI-WON
The basic rooms have recently been upgraded from traditional floor mats to standard beds and cost 33,000 won ($23) on weekdays and 40,000 won on weekends for two people. For a more distinctive stay, there are Baramchae and Haneulchae. Baramchae features a skylight that offers views of the night sky and dancing fireflies, while Haneulchae has a duplex layout, with pet-friendly and accessible units also available.
Prices vary by season and day of the week, and reservations can be made through the national park's website.
BY WOO JI-WON []
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